When you arrive at a new surf break abroad, paddling out into the unknown can be a daunting experience. So what can you do to have the best – and safest – surf possible at a new spot?
Whether you arrive by boat, tuk-tuk, moped or mini bus, rolling up at a new surf break and getting that first peek of the waves can induce excitement and butterflies. It’s pumping and you’re super keen to get amongst it, but there’s no one familiar in the line-up, you don’t know the best entry point, are unsure about hazards, rocks and rips, how heavy the paddle out it and what the vibe is like… All of which can leave you feeling nervous and affect your surfing performance.
But with a bit of patience and knowledge, surfing a new break doesn’t have to be scary or involve lots of wiping out while you’re working it out. Here are a few steps to take to ensure you paddle out safely and confidently, and maximise your chances of catching some great waves.
Watch the waves
Take your time to suss out the break from the shore. Where are people paddling out from? Are they using a channel or rip to get out? Where are they sitting to take off, and can you spot any rocks or hazards? Once you’ve identified how to get out and where you’re aiming for, you’re more like to get the best waves when you get out there.
Before you paddle out wait to see how big the sets are, where they break, how long between them, and how many waves in each set. This is crucial for paddling out, and also if you do get caught on the inside, you can remain much calmer knowing how many waves you have to take on the head before the next lull.
Go with the ebb and flow
Before hitting a new break, make sure you know how the break responds to the tides, and time your surf accordingly (the most useful phrase you can learn in any language on a surf trip is high tide and low tide). You don’t want to paddle out on a head-high beach break at mid tide, only for it to turn into a hollow, board-breaking beach womp within half an hour of your surf.
Wherever you go, apps like Surfline and Surf Forecast are essential as a reference. If there are lifeguards or surf instructors on the beach, I always approach them to ask about the surf set up and tides; they are the experts in that area and always worth getting the lowdown from.
Take your time
Whatever the level of your surfing, don’t paddle straight out to the peak and battle it out with the locals to snag the first set wave from a pizza-sized take-off spot. There’s a pecking order to be respected at every break and you won’t make friends being the gringo with no etiquette.
Remember that you’re here to have fun and have nothing to prove, so build up your ride time and confidence with some easier take-offs or reforms, and work your way into the main peak once you’re feeling confident, have assessed the level of the other surfers in the water, and have the set-up and vibe dialled.
If it’s a beach break with several peaks, opt for a less busy peak first to find your feet. If it’s a point break or reef break, start by sitting on the shoulder and watching the action. Empty shoulders can be slim pickings on a busy break, but the take off is less intimidating and you can edge your way into the peak once you’ve assessed the power and size of the wave, how shallow it is, and any hazards down the line.
It’s useful to line-up your take-off spot with two reference points on land, especially when there are currents moving you around.
Smile
Make sure you smile and say hi to the locals (preferably in the their language) – often you’ll find then much more friendly than they look, regardless of their demeanour on the waves. If I’m paddling out or sitting on the shoulder and see someone on a bomb, I always cheer them on – it makes them smile and me less nervous. Plus, they might just have your back when you’re waiting your turn for a wave out there.
Surfing a reef or point break for the first time?
If you’re used to beach breaks, there are pros and cons to stepping up to rock-bottomed reef and point breaks. Firstly, if you’re used to duck-diving your way through lines of whitewater to get out back, the use of a channel where no waves are breaking means easy, dry hair paddle outs – however, the paddle can be long, so make sure you keep enough in the tank to paddle back in.
Once you’re out there you can watch the break from safety of the channel, without having to sit on the peak or get waves on the head. Reef and point breaks are also much more mechanical than beach breaks as they break in more or less the same place each time (basically where the swell hits the rocks/ reef) – making them much easier to read.
However, the downside is that you will be surfing over rocks. So if you’ve never surfed a reef before, start with a deeper reef break or a higher tide. And take waves on the shoulder, making the take off more mellow and it less likely that you’ll get washed into the rocks on the inside. Also, when you wipeout (and you will), fall flat – don’t dive towards the rocky bottom. If there are sea urchins wear reef boots; trust me, picking the spines out of your feet is much more uncomfortable than surfing in boots.
Once you have got your confidence on a reef or point break you’ll find your surfing coming on in leaps and bounds, and longer rides mean you have time to think about manoeuvres and going with the flow of the waves. We recommend destinations such as Sri Lanka for trying your first reef breaks, rather than the likes of Morocco or the Ments.
Should I use a surf guide?
When you’re surfing a new destination, the best way to get spots dialled is under the wing of a surf guide. If you’re staying in a surf camp many of them include this service, or you can contact a local surf school/ camp in your location. Paddling out alongside an experienced local surfer isn’t the same as surf school – they are not there to instruct you and don’t come with the same safety cover as a qualified instructor. However, they will ensure you know the entry and exit points, any rocks and hazards, where to sit and and have eyes on you in the water. They’re also usually well known with many of the local surfers in the water, making the line-up a much friendlier place to be.
There can be a language barrier between you and the guide, depending on your destination, so make sure you know a few surf-related words of local dialect. I’ve had local surf guides who will literally just give you the thumbs up and holler ‘nice’ as you paddle back out after a good wave, and others fluent in English that can not only ensure you know how to avoid a submerged shipwreck on takeoff, but also give the history of the area and some valuable surf tips between sets.
Eat, sleep, surf, repeat
While surf travel affords you the chance to try all sorts of surf breaks, if consistent conditions prevail it’s rewarding to return to the same break time and time again on a surf trip. Once you get a spot dialled, not only does it mean your surfing can thrive as your knowledge and confidence grows, you also get to see some familiar faces and even make friends in the surf. And instead of facing the butterflies when you paddle out, you can focus on the excitement and fun of the surfing experience. After a couple of weeks in one destination, I’ve usually had my best waves in the same spot I’ve grown the most affinity to – and that’s often the one where I was most scared to paddle out at the start of the trip.
About The Author
Comments